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CHESTNUTS Like their inedible cousins, the horse chestnuts that are commonly found on the ground in the autumn, chestnuts are also enclosed in a spiky husk. Horse chestnuts have been used to treat respiratory ailments in horses. There are usually three regular chestnuts found inside when their burr covering is removed. Through breeding, a variety has been produced that only has one large nut inside the husk instead of the three smaller ones. These larger chestnuts are called marrons in French, and the smaller ones are called chataignes. Since chestnuts are somewhat difficult to peel, the larger nuts are often preferred for cooking. Either way, the milky, wrinkly looking nut is covered with a thin brown skin, which is removed before eating.
Chestnut trees appear to have originated in the region encompassing the Mediterranean and Asia. They have been eaten since prehistoric times. Most are now grown in Italy, Spain, South Korea, China and Japan. In the U.S., most chestnut trees were wiped out by Dutch Elm disease in the 20th century. You can still find the occasional survivor in some neighborhoods (I found one in the Watsessing area of Bloomfield; apparently these trees that were not damaged by the blight are Oriental varieties, the Japanese Crenata and China's Mollissima, or our native Chinquapin.) They are raised commercially in Texas. Chestnuts are quite rich nutritionally. 100 grams of chestnut contains about three grams of protein, less than two grams of fat, 44 grams of carbohydrates and 20 grams of fiber. They are twice as starchy as potatoes. Chestnuts also contain vitamin C, calcium, copper, magnesium, folic acid, vitamins B2, B2 and B6, iron, sodium, thiamine and about 450 mg. of phosphorus. They are said to prevent anemia, relieve stomach problems and to have antiseptic properties. Eaten raw, one may have difficulty digesting them unless they are chewed very thoroughly. They contain less than 200 calories, making them a very low calorie investment in relation to their nutritional contribution. In Europe, chestnuts are often served as a vegetable, or used in vegetables dishes, especially as an accompaniment to game and poultry, whereas, in our county, one hardly sees them used at all. Because the nuts are difficult to shell when raw, I always cut an X in the top and boil them before peeling. However, if you would like to peel chestnuts as an exercise for increasing your patience, or because you absolutely must have them raw and whole for your recipe, then absolutely do so. This kind of patience would be of great benefit to us nowadays in all realms, but also, of course, in the kitchen, where our modern tendencies to rush through everything cause us to eat poorly and too much. A good place to begin bringing patient cooking back into our lives could be the chestnut. If you prefer to roast your chestnuts, be sure to make a hole through the shell first so that they don't explode. Whatever method of cooking you use, the nuts peel more easily while still warm. Chestnuts in the shell should be stored in a cool, dry place. Peeled or cooked nuts need refrigeration; they can also be frozen for about six months. Dried chestnuts, often available in Oriental markets, will keep for a long time at room temperature, but you might prefer to refrigerate them as they are vulnerable to grain moths. Boiling, steaming, braising and roasting are all good methods of preparation for chestnuts. They can be used in desserts, soups, stuffings, vegetable dishes and salads. For fancy dishes, you can find them preserved in syrup or candied with sugar. They are also used in jams and purees. Chestnut flour is used in pancakes, waffles, hot cereal, bread or flat cakes. The puree is used as a pastry cream, pies, ices and puddings. Mont Blanc (white mountain) is a dessert made of a base of meringue layered with chestnut puree and covered with Chantilly cream, which is sweetened whipped cream. Apple Pie with Chestnuts Choose McIntosh or Granny Smith apples. Chop chestnuts and mix with apples, lemon juice, honey and cornstarch. Bake bottom crust for 10 minutes. Fill shell with apple mixture. Place top crust over apples and press down firmly, compressing apples and joining outsides of pie crust. Cut off any excess crust. Prick a design through the top pie shell so hot air can get out. Bake for about one hour at 350 degrees. Serve hot or room temperature. Chestnut Turkey Stuffing Mix all ingredients together and loosely stuff turkey. Stuffing can be made the night before and refrigerated so you can stuff your bird early the day you're going to cook it. — Janit London
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